Today we prepared different kinds of material for our sales area. We have extremely good Larix raw material for sho hin. Good rootbase, nice movement in the trunk, branches close to the trunk.
We did some pré stylings on several different Pines. Above Pinus sylvestris with old trunk.
Mugo Pine, pré styling for future half cascade.
Pinus sylvestris pré styling in Literati Style.
We also did some small rock plantings.
Rock plantings we did with flowering material of dwarf Japanese Quince, ferns, grasses and moss planted on red lava rock.
Every day we are filling up our nursery stock with prepared material. We are also preparing a lot of material for beginners and low budget starters.
“Two To One” are workshops with 2 participants. In our normal workshops we take 5 people for half a day or 8 people for a days workshop. Some material needs intensively work to be done by myself, this is impossible when other participants have to wait for more than half an hour sometimes an hour. I select the material for the “Two to One” workshops in advance. This sho hin black pine is an example. It is nearly impossible to explain the student what he has to do. This tree comes back on a workshop once a year and this now for the third time. Three years ago there was nearly no growth inside. This time with the right techniques we had very good result.
Before I start pruning I check every branch and if there is enough smaller growth with good healthy buds in I can start to remove the strong growth on the outside. If I should wait a couple of months longer, f.ex. until spring, most of the inside material would die off. Doing this earlier should give us stronger buds in spring but we do not need them, because in this stage I want to start up a different technique to keep the growth and needles smaller. The student has a glass house and this is perfect to protect the tree during winter season.
When the outside growth is completely removed, I start to work on the inside and made a selection in all the new material. Were there is too much and too close to each other I thin out. Than I work underneath every branch and look every time from underneath up in ramification. Finally I shorten in all the long needles; by doing this I know the needles will die off in about eight to nine months, that is about the time that the tree comes back on a workshop. But our programm is that also end of april we do a drastic repotting in a final pot and one month later we do our first maintenance because from now on there is no strong growth allowed anymore.
Bringing a tree back as strong as this one is can only be done with the right technique and an oversized pot. This was the easy part. From now on we are working intensively every time it is growing and this twice a year. We have to observe carefully that we keep winning ramifications on the inside. Once the tree starts to get weaker again, you are already too late with your observation. This technique that we are going to start now can maximum be done about three years in a row. To be sure checking the buds is a good guidance. Keeping a tree in top condition with the best ramification is also watering very important. Knowing your soil mixture is necessary. Once you give too much water the needles will grow big. If you give too less water there is going to be a stop in the growth of the needles. What is just enough; keep your eyes open every day. This techniques we are using are just working in our climate.
When you do nothing, nothing happens. In 2003 Johan arrived with this schrub on a workshop. We selected the branches, wired them and made a hollow taper on the cutting mark. Before it came from an old garden plant of about 20 years old, which was digged up approximately in 2001. We just used a few roots and 30cm of the trunk, the rest was cut off and the lower part was potted up. There are many schrub varieties wich react very good on such a drastic pruning. They are making new buds and new branches directly on the old trunk, we let them grow for a while and on the picture here above this was our start after the first selection.
One year later, august 2004, the end of a growing season we had a good result because this is a very fast growing variety. Most important branches are developing well, especially lower part and taper. This is going to help us over the years with the taper of the trunk.
Another year later, august 2005, again a branch selection and pruning everything for the first time in proportion. We let the taper much longer but also prune him back but not so drastically as the lower part. We did the first repotting in an oversized bonsaipot.
Mai 2007; now we make a selection of the branches which we let grow very strong, this to improve the thickness of some of the branches. We are not doing this with all the branches at the same time.
June 2008; we let the tree carry his fruit for the first time. Did some improvements on branches and ramifications, with wiring and selective pruning.
March 2009; we pruned drastically everything back in proportion and did the same with the rootsystem. We builded up a good rootball compact to the trunk so it was possible to pot the tree up in a more proportional pot.
Mai 2012; another pot. with not a drastic repotting. The first bonsaiwork is done, we started to create some more open spaces between the branches. Now we are working more intensively on the inside ramifications.
Autumn colour of the fruit and our recent result. This is another prove of following a long time project and doing the right things on the right time of the year. This is about the time that anybody needs if you want to create something that looks natural and has older and younger branches on the right places in the tree. In our workshops it is necessary that you keep believing in what we start up, anybody that neglect one year in the whole process will miss the best end result possible. This is not our end goal and not our end pot but from now on there is every year a Pyrantha bonsai on the workshop and we will work on it as on a bonsai.
During a workshop last year with big Yamadori Taxus, I advised one of my students to take the saw and cut the tree in two pieces. This is the smallest and will become the best. The tree has grown for one summer separated in a pot and this week I start to carf on the big sawmark.
I completed the whole carving work and created more depth and movement.
From the back side hollow deadwood, movement and no saw marks anymore.
After my carving work I gave the power tool to the student to clean it up with a steel brush. And the work for this year is done. Next year same time we do a wiring, next summer the tree can grow freely without wire or pruning.
This is a clean styling with easy material, is it a yamadori or an old garden plant, if you don’t know you can not tell the difference. The tree is on our sales benches.